Thursday 3 February 2011

Heston's historical dishes divide critics

Heston Blumenthal's new restaurant, Dinner, has been open for three days and already some are calling it 'the best in the world'. Solidly booked for the next three months, the restaurant is certainly proving popular. The focus of its menu is historical British cuisine, drawing its recipes from the 14th-19th centuries.

However, his idiosyncratic approach to cooking has failed to convince others. Some think that he relies on spectacle rather than flavour to bring in customers. Jan Moir, of the Daily Mail, ended her review with a biting backhanded compliment: "eating at his new restaurant remains an interesting experience, rather than a delicious one."

On the menu are his (now signature) meat fruit and savoury ice cream (this time "brown bread"), as well as powdered duck and ragu of pigs' ears. Reading the menu, I can see Jan's point but obviously I can't judge what I haven't tasted. It's good to see something a bit quirky being done though and it is interesting to read the dates beside each dish.

Here at the Red Lion, I think we'll stop short of Heston's level of innovation but we are always interesting in trying new things. For instance there is our venison & duck burger, a mouthwatering alternative to the traditional beef burger.




No comments:

Post a Comment